“Luxe Populis”, inspired by the street

Photo: Leblon Delienne Mickey Sparkling by Thomas Dariel © DR

The recent passing of designer Virgil Abloh has highlighted the considerable influence that this American designer of Louis Vuitton’s men’s collections had on the world of luxury, with an impact that ranged far beyond fashion. A true living god for the younger generation, he raised street culture up to the highest echelons, with a stunning mix of references to art, music and design. Vincent Grégoire, Director of Insights for the Nelly Rodi strategic consulting firm, had already frequently referred to this designer’s universe in defining his concept of “Luxe Populis”, luxury “that comes from ground up”. An essential component of the emerging definitions of luxury today, it coexists with an “Über Luxe” that “comes from the top down”, reserved for a certain elite. “Virgil Abloh capitalized on the expectations of an audience that emerged from popular cultures hungry for recognition, who don’t care about good taste”, states Vincent Grégoire.

“Luxe Populis”, luxury “that comes from ground up”

“In revenge mode, they proudly proclaim showing off, massive consumption and a true party atmosphere that’s full of energy. It’s luxury as a reward for hard work done, finally recognized after all this time.” It draws its energy from the street, mixes genres, including the precious and the ordinary, for a playful, bold result that isn’t afraid to be provocative. It boldly shows off on social media and provokes an avalanche of new images relayed through the accounts of influencers who have millions of followers. This is the domain of speed, fast fashion and a shared festive experience. In an industry in search of experiences and younger generations, the rules of this new kind of luxury often involve pop-up-style, event-based “cool-laborations”. It’s Dior placing its brand name on Air Jordan sneakers, with rapper Travis Scott as a muse. It’s Gucci opening a virtual pop-up garden within the Roblox video game, or Burberry outfitting the heroine of a Chinese video game. Each time, rarity or time limitations create a rush toward a certain product. When Virgil Abloh created a collection for Ikea, it was so popular that shoppers had to be drawn at random. “The mix of different worlds, gamification, inclusivity, the virtual worlds of the metaverse and pop-up and temporary items meet this need to exist”, echoes Vincent Grégoire. It’s a stimulating kind of energy to experience and share, which we’ll see represented at Maison&Objet and In The City, something to inspire us all.