Filt, the string bag that ticks every box
Published on 6 August 2021
With its little string shopper made in Normandy, this is one French brand that’s ruling the world. Time to take a closer look at a product with superstar status.
It’s the one thing every brand dreams of: inventing an incredible product that people all over the world simply can’t get enough of. But that’s easier said than done. The perfect peeler, the disposable lighter, the consummate corkscrew - all these much-loved inventions are the fruit of many years’ labour, patience and expertise. Often copied, never equalled. At Filt, the product in question is a Made in France cotton string shopping bag manufactured in Normandy, which can be snapped up for just a few euros. In Japan, bloggers go crazy for its unique design. In the USA, it’s synonymous with “effortless French elegance”. In France, it’s part of the country’s emotional heritage. Unsurprisingly, the little shopping bag made it onto the shelves of concept store Merci in no time at all having been spotted by Jean-Luc Colonna, who was responsible for the brand’s collections at the time, along with Daniel Rozensztroch. “I love this kind of self-explanatory product that effortlessly combines style and function,” he explains. “It’s both easy to use and well-designed. Thanks to Filt, there’s no need to fork out hundreds of euros to own something cool.”
The Filt shopper’s story is a roller coaster of highs and lows. It all began in Normandy in 1860 when a group of peasants got together to weave linen bags they could use when harvesting crops. The “potato bag” was born. The industrial revolution was in full swing at the time, inspiring a man named René L’Honneur to mechanise the production process. Based in Caen, the “Manufacture Générale de Filets L’Honneur et ses fils” started manufacturing every kind of bag imaginable, along with game bags for hunting and blankets for horses. On being called up to serve during the First World War, René L’Honneur enjoyed discussing his work with other soldiers who came from a textile background like his own. Eventually, his expertise ended up being exported to other countries. Then the war struck for a second time. On 6th June 1944, the city of Caen was destroyed by the Allied bombers during the D-day landings. “The factory was smashed to smithereens”, explains Catherine Cousin, who now owns the firm along with her husband, Jean-Philippe. “When you look back at the photos, it’s extremely moving to see the workers pushing up their sleeves to search for pieces of machinery that could still be used.”
The post-war period proved to be a new golden age for the firm, with the L’Honneur factory successfully riding the wave of the emerging leisure industry by manufacturing tennis, badminton and ping-pong nets and hammocks. But above all, the firm added handles to its bags, turning them into shoppers, which offered the perfect way of carrying a bunch of leeks, three apples and a lettuce. Between the 1950s and ’70s, the “housewives’ string shopper” became a staple in every French home, as well as being exported overseas.
But the 1980s were to mark the end of the 30-year post-war boom. Supermarkets and their disposable plastic bags left the “grannyish” string shopper seeming decidedly uncool. The firm, renamed Filt, parted ways with the L’Honneur family in the early 1990s. But it wasn’t until the year 2000, with the arrival of Jean-Philippe Cousin at the helm, that sleeping beauty was finally awakened. An experienced textile engineer, he instantly recognised the true value of the firm’s longstanding expertise. His first step was to modernise the production tools, which still dated back to the post-war period. His wife, Catherine, a Beaux-Arts graduate specialising in fashion design, shared his entrepreneurial mindset. The pair started out as shareholders, but eventually ended up buying out the entire firm. Having initially come on board to focus on the baby carrier range - made from cotton string, of course - Catherine rapidly realised that the technique once used for weaving the string shopper had sadly been lost. Armed with an abundance of patience and a helping hand from a retired worker and an engineer, the spark of nostalgia was soon rekindled.
“In the beginning, the fashionistas didn’t know quite what to make of this bag full of holes!”
The firm’s inaugural collection was launched in 2009 in a range of bold manga-style hues - reds, yellows, blues and greens. In January 2011, Filt made its first appearance at Maison&Objet Paris. “I thought that people might appreciate the product’s kitschness,” says Catherine. “It was the year when lots of well-known products were making a massive comeback, such as Le Creuset cookware and the Fiat 500...”. Overseas visitors from Italy, Korea, Japan and the USA, who had also spotted the little bag on Merci’s shelves, instantly placed orders, too. “I’m absolutely delighted whenever I can help provide a springboard for a great brand,” says Jean-Luc Colonna, who now works as a retail consultant. Catherine not only knows how to listen to her customers, but also knows how to adapt. Her string shopper can be found in all of Tokyo’s must-shop spots. “The quality of production makes it totally unique.” The bags are woven on Rachel looms, initially designed for lace, and Catherine gleans colour inspiration from the catwalks. She has just completed a collaboration with luxury leather goods brand Longchamp, which has embellished Filt’s string shopper with the iconic leather handles and flap traditionally seen on its “Pliage” bag. The model has already acquired best-seller status.
In the home, the bag becomes a veritable multi-tasker. The mini kids’ version is adopted in the kitchen to display lemons and oranges, whilst the XXL model welcomes laundry, footballs or cushions and even makes the perfect beach bag. “I didn’t think the success would last,” Catherine admits. “But the trend for nostalgic products was soon followed by the desire to ditch plastic bags. Our shopper is 100% cotton, and is dyed with oeko-tex-certified dyes. It’s extremely strong, as well as being machine-washable.” Fashionistas have resolutely adopted it, despite the fact that “in the beginning they didn’t know quite what to make of this bag full of holes!” A paper bag soon sorts that out. The Filt shopper has become the carryall of choice into which bento boxes and comfy trainers are stuffed for the journey to and from work. But its true strength is woven into its soul. “We truly value the men and women who work for us,” explains Catherine Cousin. “The way we’ve organised the manufacturing process ensures that just one employee is responsible for each bag from start to finish. Their name is even printed on the label.” From Los Angeles to Tokyo, everyone consequently knows that it was Laurence, Hélène, Dhia, Mégane or Karen who stitched their shopper. “What started out as an old ladies’ brand has now become a firm that is powered forward by its 160-year legacy,” says Catherine with visible pride. In 2017, Filt was awarded the EPV label, singling the brand out as a Living Heritage Firm (Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant).
By Caroline Tossan
Illustration ©Sarah Bouillaud